Sports performance, in general, calls for lightweight equipment; in the modern era, manufacturers are in a consistent race to achieve the lightest design possible. Even casual shoes are optimized for weight, and it’s all because of a simple reason: a lighter shoe requires less effort to move. That’s it.

Even footwear meant to be thick and heavy is optimized for weight – not necessarily to make it light, but to make it not as heavy. This is because when it comes to sports performance, you want your footwear to weigh just how much is necessary, in order to execute the movements properly. Not an ounce more or an ounce less.

“Not an ounce less, I thought we wanted to go as light as possible?” you may ask. This is partially true. You should go as lightweight as functionally possible. However, just like the excess of weight becomes an obstacle to performance, the lack of it becomes so, as well. The problem isn’t really the lack of weight itself, but rather what it takes to achieve that lack of weight.

A shoe that is too minimalist will lack structure and support. Think of a climbing shoe made entirely from mesh; it certainly would be nearly weightless, but nowhere near functionally acceptable. Achieving minimalism shouldn’t be about the total weight, but rather the weight of its components in relation to the purpose they’re meant for.

For example, winter boots are meant to be thick and heavy to a certain extent, but this doesn’t imply that they must weigh a ton. They still can, and should, be optimized to deliver adequate protection at the least amount of weight possible.

Decreasing the weight of a design not only allows you to move it with less effort but also to move it more accurately. Regarding the effort it takes to move your feet, a lot of users underestimate the weight of their footwear. The amount of reduced effort may be insignificant if we’re talking about one step; but, when we’re talking about multiple hours of hiking and climbing, all those steps add up to a considerable reduction in muscular fatigue.

Climbing footwear, specifically, should be lightweight for these two reasons. You want to use the least amount of energy as possible on each motion, and you want to be able to perform freely and accurately.

In some of our guides, we’ve discussed the importance of flexibility in performance footwear. The ability to flex our feet is the very base of nearly any motion that involves our legs. There’s a very limited amount of movements that can be performed without flexing the foot, and they’re often highly uncomfortable. This is because our feet are simply anatomically designed to flex.

Any shoe that lacks flexibility contradicts the human anatomy, and thus, it disrupts any sort of performance; more specifically, those related to aerobics or sports. But flexibility is one of the most delicate aspects of climbing shoes, in comparison to other traditional performance footwear like running shoes. Normally, the flexibility is designed to assist the walking gait in which the arch is the highest point of flexion.

However, climbing footwear requires a whole other perspective when it comes to the flexibility of the frame. As opposed to most other performance designs, climbing shoes may come with a stiffer midsole; although this varies depending on the specific practice you perform.

This doesn’t mean the shoe should be only flexible or only stiff; that is, stiffness and flexibility are not necessarily opposite features, and they can work together as one.

Despite the outsole being hard for stability and protection purposes, it should still feature a certain grade of flexibility. The upper build should, also, be flexible, because when climbing feet are meant to ‘wrap’ the points of support. A flexible climbing design will allow you to place your foot slightly around objects rather than just sit completely flat upon them.

The best options are those that allow your feet to flex freely. Keep in mind that flexing your feet isn’t the same as flexing the shoe; your feet are capable of flexing and moving to a certain extent without affecting the state of the outsole. The upper build becomes a critical point of flexibility for this task, as well as the frame because they will allow you to perform the unnatural twisting and turning motions required for certain obstacles.

It’s important to not get an utterly-flexible design; rigidness is a must, in order to maintain support at an optimal point. An excess of flexibility and softness will, ultimately, result in the lack of structure and support.

Climbing is an activity that will harm your feet if you’re not properly prepared for it. The right materials are required in order to prevent your feet from being exposed to superior amounts of stress. Although certain parts of our feet suffer more than others while climbing, it’s important to look for all-around protection.

In most cases, you don’t get to perform gentle motions in which your feet are softly placed on the climbing rocks. Climbing involves forceful movements that, upon impact with the rocks, generate a lot of shock and stress on the feet.

While materials will physically protect the surface of your feet, some residual shock will always get to them. This is why it’s important to look for designs that offer a sufficient amount of shock-absorption or some form of a stress-relieving method. The best ones feature an absorptive outsole material or individual technologies like gel absorption systems, in addition to a heel cup. Even the midsole will provide both stability and comfort when considering shock-absorption.

Outsole:
The outsole is possibly the most important element of a climbing shoe. This element is what, ultimately, determines whether you stay on the climb or not.

It’s paramount that your footwear features a high-end outsole. At the same time, multiple sub-factors determine the quality of an outsole.

For starters, and most importantly, one of these sub-factors is the grip. A good grip will have a considerable impact on your climbing performance; that is, the better it is, the easier and more securely you’ll be able to grasp objects.

The materials that compose the outsole have a clear impact on its gripping qualities. Normally, rubber is the most widely used compound for this task. Its abrasion-resistant qualities make it ideal for this rough sport, and rubber is not a material that slips off things in its natural state. However, we’re not necessarily talking about traditional rubber.

Synthetization plays a huge role in performance footwear materials. For instance, vulcanized rubber has a slightly stickier surface than traditional rubber, which proves to be extremely handy; especially at the moment of gripping uneven rocks when climbing.

A quality outsole will be able to grip to a wider variety of objects more efficiently. It also allows users to grip elements that aren’t necessarily in their natural state (e.g. a wet surface). This, of course, depends on how wet or affected the surface is. As a side note and a very important one at that: never assume you’ll be able to grip the rock before going for it.

Another important aspect of a climbing shoe outsole is the stability. The outsole, aside from providing protection to feet, must be able to act as a firm platform. Without this feature, you won’t be able to make efficient use of your own impulse. A solid base is necessary to take confident and powerful steps.

An outsole that wiggles as you place tension on it gives you no security or certainty. You won’t use your true potential if you don’t rely on your outsole; no one feels comfortable climbing with an outsole that feels weak. On the other hand, when you’re standing on a solid and reliable outsole, you’re able to give the most power without any concerns.

Comfort is, possibly, the most underrated feature of sports footwear.

The facts are that, in order to perform at your best, your feet must be in a comfortable state. You can’t expect an optimal performance if you’re thinking of how uncomfortable your shoes are while you perform.

In some cases, beginners aren’t able to determine what it is that makes rock climbing footwear comfortable. While there are certain comfort standards for every element of the design, personal preference always has an impact on what is more comfortable for you individually.

The first factor is the sizing. At first sight, it’s a bit obvious; nobody is going to get a pair of shoes that don’t match their sizing. However, some people can’t accurately tell how suitable each sizing is for them. This is, in part, because climbing shoes are meant to fit differently than traditional performance footwear.

The right sizing is one in which your big toe barely touches the tip of the inner shoe. If it doesn’t touch the shoe, it’s too big. Likewise, if all of your toes are compressed against the tip, it’s too small. Keep in mind that footwear of this type will always fit tightly in comparison to other designs, but not an annoying type of tightness; rather, a supportive one.

The lining material is another factor you must check before purchasing. The best footwear will have a cushioned and soft lining that comforts your foot throughout the climb. Any sort of discomfort generated by the physical contact will prevent you from giving your best, as you’ll instinctively restrain your motions to avoid hurting your feet. And the more tired you become, the more your mind will stray toward the discomfort.

Cushioning within a shoe plays a role in both comfort and functionality. Cushioning is a key point to shock absorption and prevention of painful feet when climbing. The only things standing between our feet and the external materials is the insole, the lining, and the cushioning. If we were to take the cushioning away from the interior, your feet would experience a massive part of the impact generated on each step. While the external materials may hinder the initial impact, the shock will work its way up the shoe and into your feet.

The cushioning should be composed of a material that delivers comfort and has performance qualities at the same time. Materials that include shock-absorbing qualities work as excellent cushioning for climbing shoes, such as foams and similar soft compounds.

These kinds of shoes call for a minimalist approach in all senses and aspects, and this involves cushioning. As much as climbers would love to, it’s not practical to have a thick layer of cushioning foam under their feet while performing; thus, the minimalism of the materials represents as much importance as the cushioning itself.

Compounds like the ones used in gel cushioning systems take the lead for this kind of shoe. The gel features excellent absorbing qualities and provides a soft sensation when compressed; but more importantly, only a thin layer of gel is necessary to equip a climbing design with the necessary amount of cushioning and shock absorption at the same time.

It’s important for climbing shoes to incorporate a feature of breathability. Without breathability, the footwear will be hot and uncomfortable for the feet. This will produce lots of sweat, and there’s nothing more uncomfortable than having sweaty feet when trying to climb. Breathability ensures that feet will be able to get fresh some air.

Excessive sweating comes with a list of consequences at the same time, which will become obstacles during your performance. Initially, the sweat can be a cause for your feet to slip within the shoe. There isn’t too much space within a climbing design for the foot to slip around, and slight discordances in your feet's movement are enough to affect your balance and performance.

Additionally, overheated feet are just uncomfortable. As explained in the comfort section, you aren't able to focus and give 100% during your climb if there’s something disrupting the activity, like overheated feet. The annoyance of the heat concentration within your footwear becomes a psychological factor that has a considerable negative impact on your abilities; not to mention, overheated feet can simply start to be physically painful, as well.

The lack of breathability, also has post-performance effects, such as the accumulation of bacteria in the interior of the shoe. This bacteria contributes to the development of bad smells that stick to the insole and the inner materials. It’s, also, a common cause for athlete’s foot and other infections.

The best climbing shoes are those that feature an acceptable level of breathability. The air must be able to flow freely through the shoe, preventing any heat from accumulating in a prolonged fashion. Furthermore, the constant flow of fresh air becomes a comforting factor; not only reducing the sweat but also preventing skin irritation caused by heat.