There are about nine distinguished types used in footwear (depending on who you ask), but let’s go into the most common. Because this material is used as a catch-all term, it’s easy to confuse and mix-up the many different types there actually are or aren’t. The type of this material can be differentiated by its processing method, or by the animal hide or raw material which it was made from.

Roughout – Roughout is an inverted version of the material, meaning it’s flipped inside-out. It is somewhat more breathable than the standard material and is favored because it does not need any extra attention when it comes to cleaning. This product is used for rough-wear and performance rather than looks and fashion.

Vegan Tanned - This is super simple with no special tanning methods or the processing is done to it. It’s actually made from organic plant material using tree bark for tanning. It usually comes out light in shade, but the shade does not stick around for long. The materials will naturally darken up with use, and should not be an alarm to you if you do notice a darker shade over time.

Pulled – These ones are a group of highly oiled and waxed skins turned a different shade, usually lighter, when force is put on the product, such as stretching or pulling. Footwear made of this is extremely easy to maintain and fairs well against scuffing and similar damage.

Chamois – This is also referred to as the “shammy”. It resembles suede in a way, and because it absorbs liquids, it is usually heavily waxed and oiled. On the bright side, the heavy application of the wax and oils makes it so you don’t need to shine it very often.

Suede – Just like the RO, suede is inverted but instead applies a sanded and highly buffed-out finish, making it extremely soft and easy to the touch. Water and muck will easily attach itself to the material, so footwear made of suede should not be worn in rough environments.

S. Grain – Commonly referred to as pebble grain, this is made using barley in order to form the texture. The barley assists in shrinking the material, which instead of shriveling makes the interesting pattern this product is known for. You can also find this made in an alternative way, using embossing techniques over cowhide.

Cordovan – For many, this is the most favored of all listed here. It is made using horsehide, and the reason it’s as strong as it is has to do with the area of the horse which the skin used for this leather is pulled from. It is taken from the hind area, where the skin is hardest due to dense pores. This also means it will be a whole lot more naturally water-resistant. Another benefit is less creasing.

Calfskin – This is made from cow calves. The young skin means it will be much thinner than normal cowhide. It will also have much fewer blemishes and natural imperfections than the skin of an older cow. Despite the age of the cow and less thick skin, it still holds the same durability and strength. This polishes up really well and is of the most ideal skins for dress footwear.

Patent – This material is an extremely polished and shined version of cowhide and calfskin. With methods taken from old Chinese polishing habits, or by use of plastics, an extraordinarily eye-catching shine is achieved. It is typically seen in use on formalwear and is probably most popular for this type of shoe across the board.

Leather is often considered to be one of the highest quality materials used in footwear, thanks to its durability and other unique qualities that other fabrics may not offer. However, not all are created equal, and certain types will have better quality than others. Ideally, that used in footwear should be of robust quality, with good waterproofing and enough softness to allow the design to be broken in well without compromising durability.

Robust Quality

More often than not, quality goes hand in hand with durability. A design made from high-quality materials will likely cost more but will be more durable and last longer than those made from lower-quality materials. For the purposes of this buying guide, we researched each product in-depth to ensure that they were made using high-quality materials so that you can get the most out of them.

Waterproofing

Leather is unique in that, unlike textiles such as cotton and synthetics such as polyester, it is naturally water-resistant. This makes this material a good choice for those who plan on being outdoors or in wet environments, as well as those who work in food service or custodial positions. For this reason, it’s important for high-quality ones to have strong waterproofing qualities. Some companies will even go as far as adding an additional waterproofing treatment on top of the material for extra protection.

Malleability

While footwear comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, it will require some breaking in, in order to fully form to the Unique shape of your feet. This takes longer to break in than other materials, and good-quality materials will be made in such a way that it can do so within a reasonable amount of time. It will also balance this malleability with overall strength so that once the shoes are broken in, they will stay in good shape for a long time.

When it comes to durability and this type of material, you have little to worry about. This has long been considered one of the most durable materials for making just about anything footwear and apparel related - it's no secret that it's been used for literally thousands of years for this purpose.

The reason for this is that animal skin, by design, is durable. It's supposed to protect the animal from the elements, from changes in temperature, from injury, wind, sand, water, snow, you name it.

How resilient your pair of shoes will depend on how thickly it is layered in the product. Typically, for footwear, it's not as thick as it would be for furniture, for example. But with proper care and maintenance, there is no reason why genuine footwear shouldn't last you even years.

This is dramatically increased if you choose designs with good construction as well. Look for those made using the Goodyear welt technique, which enables the design to be resoled without damaging it. Goodyear welt footwear is known to last for decades.

The final point of this section would be the care and maintenance of the material we mentioned above. Yes, it is durable, yes it pays off in the long run, yes you will have footwear that not only looks elegant and is comfortable but also lasts long. However, you also have to put in a little effort to keep it nourished and healthy.

To prevent it from drying out and cracking, from losing its shine and suppleness, you need to properly clean it and condition it. You will need special leather conditioners for this purpose.

That being said, we assure you that this process is short and should be done no more often than once a month to ensure that your shoes are the best they can possibly be, season after season.

As we briefly touched upon in our Comfort section, this material is exceptionally comfortable to wear. The main reason for this is that this material is malleable, meaning that it has the ability to change shape over time. It will mold to your foot the more you wear your shoes and provide you with a type of comfort that fits only you and no one else.

But, of course, there are more elements that go into determining whether or not a design is comfortable. Let's take a look at what they are.

Footbed

The footbed is one of the main aspects of footwear when it comes to comfort, largely because it comes in direct contact with your foot. A good footbed should be cushioned to absorb shock, and it can also be contoured. Contoured or molded footbeds are great at providing arch support, which is essential in reducing foot fatigue and helping you stay on your feet for long periods of time.

Fit

Here, we're not talking about size. Size is one thing, but how design fits you within your correct size is another. Look for footwear that has plenty of room in the front so that your toes don't feel cramped or squished. Make sure that the width works for you, and that the design isn't squeezing you in any which way. The heel should be snug and comfy, not too constricting, but also not so loose that the shoe is slipping off. Try to find a good balance between all of these, and always trust your feeling.

Closures

In any type of footwear, adjustability is more than welcome. Buckles, hook-and-loop straps and laces are a great way to adjust the fit of your new footwear, either by loosening it or tightening it up to make sure you're the most comfortable. Elastic goring is not a closure but is a good feature that enables your footwear to have some give and accommodate many different foot shapes.

For our last - but certainly not the least - criterion, we have Value. This is not merely the price of the design you're looking at; value is determined by its quality, its function, and its ability to provide you with long-term satisfaction. In other words, it answers the question of whether or not it was worth buying that particular pair of shoes.

This can be quite expensive, especially the more exotic options such as snake, crocodile or the like. It stands to reason that an average person with an average budget will take a moment to consider all aspects of buying this type of footwear before springing for it.

We are here to tell you that, in general, it is always worth the extra bucks, compared to other types of material. You simply cannot find the same levels of comfort, elegance, element-resistance, and durability with faux material or fabrics.

Of course, you know best how much money you're willing to spend on a pair of shoes, and if you decide that a pair isn't worth it for any reason, you're probably right.

To make it easier for you to find a design with the most value to it, we've ranked all our options by this criterion. You can simply sort them at the top and choose off the top of the list for the ones which really pay off. Enjoy!