Depending on the type of moccasin you’re looking for, you want to make sure the sole has a couple of specific features. Not all mocs are meant for the same purpose, thus the soles should be designed accordingly.

At first sight, this factor doesn’t seem too relevant to functionality. In fact, some people don’t know their outsoles should have a specific design according to their use.

For instance, the sole on a driving moc is completely different from a plain moc. Driving ones should include patterns on the outsole that provide a good grasp of the pedals. While they may have designed in grip pattern, smoothed outsoles are more inclined to slip.

Outsole patterns, on the other hand, guarantee a much better contact with the pedals. These patterns should be just dense enough to grasp the pedals, and shouldn’t stand out too much.

For an indoor moc, things are completely different. When you’re walking around your house, you want a sole that is soft but dense. The main quality of a slipper-moc is the comfort; if the sole fails to comfort, then it’s no good for indoor use. Look for something light, but substantial enough to walk around your home. Double-bottom soles are good choices for indoor uses, especially on surfaces like hardwood.

Dress mocs usually don’t have any kind of patterns on the outsole. They’re meant for formal occasions, and thus should look as elegant as possible. The soles of the best dress designs are generally made of leather and rubber. When polishing this type of footwear, most users also polish their soles–especially when it features fine leather.

Regardless of the type of moc, you’re wearing, you’ll want some flexibility and walking support. We’re not talking about running-shoe-level flexibility; you want just enough to walk comfortably. At the end of the day, you don’t want to over-flex your steps when wearing mocs, or you’ll end up with a caked upper.

Anyone who has owned at least two pairs of shoes can instantly notice the difference between cheap leather and quality one. Though, this doesn’t mean you have to wear the most exclusive Italian leather on your feet. You just want to make sure your feet don’t look like they’re wrapped in plastic.

Full-grain leather is the top-quality cut of leather used for the best models. It’s arguably the classiest material, and trust us, there’s a huge visual difference between that and non-authentic leather.

Suede, on the other hand, is made from the interior split of a leather hide and can also look and feel great.

Don’t get us wrong though–you don’t have to wear full-grain leather, nor does that make suede a low-quality material. In fact, there’s quality suede just like there’s cheap suede. Though more commonly used for casual occasions, suede can also fit a dress occasion. Each kind of leather varies in quality, regardless of its type. The choice is really up to you and each style has its pros and cons.

There exist multiple types of leather used when making mocs. Let’s take a look at the most commonly used leather for this type of footwear and what it adds to it.

Cowhide
This is the most commonly used material for this type of shoe. It is typically processed with multiple treatments covering a variety of issues such as waterproofing and stain resistance. Full-grain cowhide leather is exceptionally durable and will stick with you through the toughest situations.

Moose Hide
This type of material is softer and more flexible than other types of moc uppers. Often showing natural scarring, these offer a look that is unmatched by others in its class. The excellent feel and natural look are other reasons people truly love footwear made of moose hide.

Deerskin
This is arguably the most comfortable leather for footwear. Deerskin is known for its utter softness, used a lot around the inner side of the shoe. Deerskin should also display natural marks on the leather, similar to that of moose hide.

Sheepskin
Sheepskin is rarely used as the main material for a moc build. The good thing about sheepskin is that wool fur is very hard to beat when it comes to comfort. Though, wool isn’t enough to provide structure to a pair of moccasins. That’s why it’s used in combination with leather. Wool is usually used as a trim around the moccasin’s collar and the lining inside the design.

Mocs are usually judged by the quality of the leather they’re made of. Aging and care also take part in the state of leather. Though you can still tell apart an old authentic piece of leather from a new fake one, the difference is clearer by giving them good maintenance. We recommend leather-specific cleaning products for this process, following our shoe cleaning guide.

Not every pair of mocs is meant for every dress code and occasion. There’s a moment to wear those super-comfy soft sole ones, and there’s a moment to wear elegant loafer ones. We’re not saying elegant ones shouldn’t be comfortable – just that they won’t be like pillows to your feet, which is the case of soft sole ones.

Formal Mocs
These usually have a stacked heel; though this is not always the case. Additionally, not all stacked heel ones are meant for formal occasions. The formality or ideal occasion for a moc is determined by multiple elements, not just one. From the leather arrangement to the quality of the leather, the design and the style are all elements that have an impact.

Casual Mocs
Typically, these expose more skin of the foot, while formal ones usually go up to the ankle. Decorative elements such as laces on the upper build are generally signals of casual wear. Though, many other elements can make it a formal moc even with decorative elements present.

Multi-Use
There’s also a variation that’s suitable for multiple occasions. Their elements adapt to whatever you’re wearing, as long as the colors are right. For instance, they can sit well with shorts just as they would with dress pants. In this case, it’s your dress code that determines the aspect of the moc rather than its features. Multi-occasion moccasins just adapt to what you’re wearing, in most cases.

What’s a moccasin without style? It’s pretty much the same as a running shoe without flexibility. If you’ve ever owned a pair of sneakers, and chances are you have, you know how bad of a statement that is.

Well, style is to a moccasin like flexibility is to a running shoe; crucial. Let’s face it; the main purpose of this kind of shoe is not comfortable, and certainly not performance. Though you keep comfort in consideration, you get a moccasin because it’s stylish as can be. If they lack style why would anyone be getting them in the first place?

The element that has the most impact on how stylish a moc is, is unquestionably the leather. We mentioned that they are judged by the quality of their leather. Well, it ultimately comes down to that. Though, more expensive leather doesn’t necessarily translate to greater style. Once again, both occasions and tastes play a vital role in the styling of a moccasin.

Regardless of taste, occasion, and type of moccasin, there are some things you want to avoid. Over-decorated designs are one of those things. It’s fine to have some ornamenting on your mocs; some fake laces on the top, whipstitching, collar fur, etc. However, too much of it takes the formality away. Even if your pair of moccasins is not a formal one, you don’t want to have a bunch of strips and things hanging off like your feet were Christmas trees.

The most important feature of a moc is the state of the leather. There’s a huge difference between old, caked leather mocs and ones that are constantly polished and cared for. Cleaning your moccasin is important, as it’s no ordinary shoe. At the end of the day, leather is similar to our skin, except it has been treated.

It’s important to consistently clean and polish the leather. If the leather never gets hydrated or treated, it will start to develop notable degrading signs. You want to treat them at least once every month, depending on the frequency with which you use them.

As we mentioned before, comfort isn’t necessarily the most important aspect of a moccasin. But, that doesn’t mean you should sacrifice all comfort to look good. A proper pair of moccasins should allow you to walk naturally without any disturbances.

For this, it should feature some flexibility in the sole. Leather is generally never a problem when it comes to flexibility; authentic leather (or quality synthetic leather) will flex as you need it.

The hardness of the sole also determines your ability to walk. Though this feature ultimately depends on the type of moc and the surface you’re using them on. For instance, a soft-soled slipper-moc is as comfortable as you’ll be able to get. But, the softer you go, the less protection you’ll have on your feet. That being said, ultra-soft soles might not be your best shot on hard floors.

The materials that make the soles also have an impact on your walking comfort levels. Moccasin soles are generally always made of rubber, leather, or a combination of both. These materials have no flexibility issues, allowing you to walk naturally without bothering your feet. They’re also good materials for all-day wear.

Keep in mind that leather, just like skin, grows softer as it matures. Repeated wear softens the shoes out, making them more comfortable, but they don’t look as rigid as new ones, of course. They are generally stiff during the first wear, especially full-grain leather ones. This doesn’t mean the fit is wrong, you just need to give some time so the leather can soften and adjust to your specific foot shape.